Dec 10, 2009

Northwest Montana

Top 3 secrets from a psuedo-local...

I’ve been tagged, as in, “travel tag–you’re it!”–a game in which travel writers share three of their beloved secret places…reluctantly. Reluctantly, because if I tell you about it, it won’t be a secret anymore, right? We don’t want our secret places overrun. There’s something about keeping a place special–only sharing it with a few special, chosen ones–that makes a girl smile. But it’s your day…I’m about to share some treasured family secrets about Montana.

#1 Montana Lakes

I was born in Montana, spend time there every summer (and some winters!), and have family there now. In short, part of my heart lives there, even though I reside in Colorado. One of the things we love, being from high, dry Colorado, is our time on the water. My parents have a cabin on Swan Lake, which is a major score for us. There are a few rentals available there for the rest of you, but they’re hard to find. You’re more likely to find a place on Flathead Lake, the largest freshwater lake West of the Mississippi and right by the quaint town of Bigfork. (I don’t just say this to keep you off the Swan, I swear.)

Flathead is a lovely lake with lots of rentals, from condos to full-scale luxury homes to a dude ranch. It’s nice to be anywhere on the northern part of the lake, but I’m partial to either being on the northeastern side–with easy proximity to Bigfork, and amazing sunsets–or across on the northwestern side, between Somers and Lakeside. On the northwestern side, you get a terrific view of the Flathead Range, which lead  into the Mission Mountains. There’s something about that combination of sprawling water and towering mountains…but then rent a boat so you can visit Bigfork, or take a day cruise around the lake and down to Wildhorse Island, where you can get out and hike.

Good Eats Near Flathead Lake

In Bigfork, I recommend you eat at Showthyme, which offers an upscale but accessible menu. (It’s housed in the old bank building–the wine cellar is in the old vault.) And they’re accustomed to getting you fed in time for a show at the Bigfork Summer Playhouse next door, a great way to introduce your kids to the stage. Another family friendly restaurant in Bigfork is the Bigfork Inn, at the end of Electric Avenue in a rustic building reminiscent of an old, alpine lodge. Locals wait in line for the huge breakfast/brunch/lunch offered at the Echo Lake Cafe, just eight minutes outside of Bigfork.

#2 Go on up to Glacier

Okay, so Glacier isn’t really a “secret,” but in relation to the MegaStars of national parks, it’s relatively unknown. You’ll thank me later for rousing you out of your deck chair by the water and sending you north. And I’m about to let you in on my favorite stops, after going there all my life…

The western entrance to this Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park (it crosses the border into Canada) is about an hour and a half north of Bigfork. Pack a picnic for lunch!

My BFF Glacier Park Itinerary:

• Start early and get to Glacier by 9am, you can get a good feel for it in a day, but I encourage you to spend the night on the eastern side, preferably at Many Glacier.
• At the minimum, stop in at the visitor’s center at Lake McDonald and then eat some breakfast at Edie’s Cafe, take a peek at the pristine lake, then head out.
• Do stop at Avalanche Campground and do the short, easy but beautiful Trail of the Cedars walk that leads to Avalanche Gorge–gorge-ous!
• Stop at the campground restrooms and head out again. Your goal? The Going-to-the-Sun Highway. Take your time going up, pausing at frequent turnouts for the view (you don’t want your driver rubber-necking on this road, trust me).
• At the top, Logan Pass, you can eat your picnic lunch and do the popular Hidden Lake trail or a bit of the Highline Trail that traces the Continental Divide just above you.
• But I recommend you keep on moving after lunch and stop instead at St. Mary Lake, with a view of Wild Goose Island–a poster-perfect image you might spot again and again that you can see for reals, as my kiddos would say. There’s a boat ride down on lower St. Mary that I’d like to take, next time I’m there. Even better? Their sunset cruise! Dreamy…
• But keep on moving…I want you to get to my very favorite stop in Glacier, Many Glacier. You can stay in the quintessential mountain lodge, or in the cheaper Swiftcurrent motel/cabins (start trying to book in March!!), or camp in the campground, but do stay in Many Glacier overnight, if at all possible.
• You can kayak on the lake, or take the two-boat ride up to Grinnell (and hike to Grinnell Lake) as a family. If all parties are fit and ready for a pretty good hike, please, please, please go to Iceberg Lake. I haven’t seen icebergs floating in an alpine, turquoise lake anywhere else. (But you need a half day for it.) Something in between easy-peasy Grinnell Lake and Iceberg? Head toward Redrock Falls. Time on your hands? Do all three. You’ll thank me later.
• Anywhere you hike, where bear bells (this is grizzly country, seriously) and go prepared for weather changes.
• (FYI, it’ll take you about 3.5 hours to reach Kalispell or Bigfork from this side of the park.)
• Into hiking? Make a reservation as early as possible to spend the night at the Granite Park Chalet and hike the Highline Trail–incredible views, little elevation gain (very family friendly).

#3 Montana in Winter: Old Time Ski Resort (That’s Pretty New)

Instead of handing over the big buckaroos for the upscale Whitefish Mountain, save your money by skiing Blacktail Mountain, located above Lakeside. We loved skiing in this small, old-style ski resort, reminding me of what Whitefish Mountain once was…back when it was called Big Mountain. Retired guys smile and joke with you as they size you for boots and skis in the rental shop; kids are apt to be one of only a few in ski school. And the views! The views…Spectacular, from the Mission Mountains to Glacier to Canada on a clear day. Lift lines? Nonexistent. Attitudes: Joyously, non-grudging. We’ll be back.

As part of this blogorama, I’m to tag a few others. I hereby tag:

• Eva Gill, from GillAdventures, who is about to head off for a year abroad with her family
• Aye, from GotPassport, who is gearing up to move to Thailand with her husband and daughter
• Jessica of WhyGo Italy and Boots ‘n’ All, because I’m a rabid Italy fan (right after Montana)
• James of WanderingItaly (see above; his posts make me feel like I’m BACK)
• Matt of NomadicMatt, who is in New Zealand now (a Someday I Wanna Go There! spot for me) and who convinced me that travel blogging could be profitable, as well as a whole lotta fun

I have no idea who will respond to this tag—it’s like a chain letter. You just never know who will rise to the occasion, or who will toss it aside as silly. But do go to NW Montana someday…and thank me later.