Dec 16, 2009

Romantic Italian Getaway, Pt. 6/6

Montepulciano, Italy

By Lisa T. Bergren

We are nearing the end of our romantic sojourn in Tuscany, and we’ve saved the hill town behind us, known for its vino nobile, for last. We’ve been to Montepulciano before, briefly, but today we have the luxury of slow, casual observation and touring. We note the well preserved walls, as we enter, built under orders of Cosimo de’ Medici in 1511 (then grand duke of Florence and a key ally), and walk to the center of town.

The main piazza is not one of the most inspiring or unique that we’ve seen, but we stop and stare at the Palazzo Comunale, built in the tradition of the Palazzo Vecchio of Florence (and reminiscent of the Palazzo Pubblico in Siena), and wander into the naked (no marble exterior), dim cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, trying to ignore the frightfully squeaky door every time anyone enters or exits.

We meander past the ancient well and another three-story palace, then down the road, looking for a place for lunch and souvenirs for family and friends.

This is a city full of steep hills, with shops and homes that line every street. We try to choose carefully, knowing we’ll have to climb the 45 degree slopes that we go down, but we’re soon lost and embracing the coming hike.

Restaurants

There are lots of great restaurants that entice us, but we end up at Osteria Acquacheta. Locals mob the tiny establishment along with tourists, which is always a good sign. The owner, Julius, often poses with a massive butcher knife hovering over a massive hunk of meat and flashes a world-weary gaze toward the photographer. No, he’s no stranger to tourists. (Once home, I discover the osteria is #2 on TripAdvisor and has been reviewed by Rick Steves. We like to happen upon our eating establishments, following the locals’ recommendations.)

They serve the massive bistecca alla fiorentina, the steaks that can easily feed two people. The owner chops off a 2″ slab and brings it raw, to the table, for the customer to approve, then takes it back to the kitchen to throw into the wood-burning oven. We went back again, the next day, but neither time were we hungry enough to tackle that slab-o-meat, even sharing it! Instead, I order the local handmade noodle, pici, in a delicate tomato/pork sauce. Tim samples the local sausages and fagioli.

Tables are crammed together, so if you like your personal space, this isn’t the place for you. At one meal we are next to a young honeymooning couple from Germany who are far too skinny to have a chance at eating the mammoth bistecca they order; at the second, we sit next to some lovely Italians who are eager to direct us on what to do and see, talking with us through the whole meal.

Julius flits around the tavern. He shaves carefully-monitored truffles (like the mushroom gold they are) over pasta dishes, monitors the waitresses, seats newcomers, chops steaks, and answers the phone. At the end of your meal, he tallies the total on a small white pad of paper, stands back with hands in the air and says, “Special price for Americano?” You pay and depart, someone taking your place as soon as you slide out of your seat.

We make our way down one street and then another, then take our car down to the church of San Biagio, which sits below the city. It’s worth a stop to see, with its white travertine exterior and its striking dome set against the lush hillside and the Tuscan soil.

We return to our villa at Terre di Nano and pack our goodies for home. I’ve brought a second suitcase, just for this occasion, and it’s packed with things like unique pasta, olive oil, vinegars, wine (all of which you can purchase inexpensively at the grocery store), leather goods, chocolate, spices, olive wood utensils—fab Christmas presents and a “thank you” for my in-laws—who took care of our kids and dog while we had this unforgettable, romantic getaway.

Have YOU been to Montepulciano? Please comment below on where you stayed, what you enjoyed, or where you’d recommend eating!

SEE OUR OTHER FIVE POSTS IN THIS SERIES:

READ PART 1: Umbria and Orvieto

READ PART 2: Monticchiello

READ PART 3: Montalcino

READ PART 4: Pitigliano and Saturnia

READ PART 5: Pienza

READ PART 6: Montepulciano