Feb 13, 2010

Eating on a Budget in Paris

"Bon appetit" eating without breaking the bank

By Lisa T. Bergren

Trying to keep to a budget—and still eat—is no easy feat in Paris. Be advised that you might encounter what is the equivalent of $10 Cokes if you sit down in some of the more famous cafes. It’s pretty typical to spend $4-6 on a drink for kids (or coffee for you), which can bring up your food bill really fast. Everyone warned us that eating in London was expensive, but I found that the simple act of dining was what nearly killed us in Paris. It was hard to not spend at least $25-30 per person on lunch (15 to 20 Euro, including drinks), to say nothing of dinner.

Cost-saving Ideas

If you’re anywhere near the Bon Marche (Metro stop right by it), make a family trek to shop and carry back supplies (take an empty rolling suitcase!). The food emporium is next to the department store, and has tons of goodies, as well as fresh food. You can buy picnic supplies, as well as sodas to bring back to your room—and take out with you for the day so you can just order tap water at cafes. Great little gifts to bring back too—sea salt and chocolate!

We took Crystal Light packets with us and filled water bottles to carry with us each day while touring. Disguises any funky water tastes and helps you avoid the $5 Coke scenario, at least some of the time.

Boulangeries/paitisseries: Fabulous bakeries can be found on almost every city block—pastries in the morning, a fresh baguette to snack on—mmmm…. let the fam carb-up at will. You’ll be able to split more meals.

Fresh produce markets are on nearly every street; I bought a banana for $.50 and fab strawberries for $4. Great way to get some vitamins in the mix, when enjoying diets heavy in butter, chocolate and white carbs.

Many neighborhoods have farmer’s markets twice a week; ask about those closest to you, upon arrival, so you don’t miss it.

If you’re not having to escape cold or rain, look for corner stalls of cafes that offer sodas, juices, sandwiches and crepes to eat on the street. You’re in Paris—don’t you want to sit and watch the people go by anyway?

A Ten dollar Coke in Paris

Have the kids eat from the children’s menu (labeled “d’Enfant”). Even my almost-fourteen-year-old had more than enough food eating from these options—and they always included a yummo dessert.

Warn the kids that French restaurants do not offer “free refills” on drinks like chain restaurants in America, so if you’re like me, you’ll be limiting them to one special beverage per meal.

Other Tips:

  • Croque Monsieur is a kid-friendly sandwich—a French version of toasted ham and cheese (or variations of it), served open-faced. My kids also like salmon, which was fortunate, since it appeared on most menus we saw. If your kids haven’t had salmon, consider making it a few times before you go to introduce them to it.
  • Need to unwind after a long day of touring with the kids? Like wine? Ordering a partial carafe is pretty affordable in Paris. Rosé is a light, fruitier, pink wine. Rouge is what you want if you like red. Pretty hard to go wrong, even if you just go with the house wine.
  • You’ll need a French phrase book to help you decode French menus. Most are on chalk boards and not translated—I copied a few key pages to have with me in my purse, so I didn’t have to carry the book with me.
Cafe at the Musee d'Orsay in Paris

Cafe at the Musee d'Orsay

Recommended Restaurants

We loved the funky, casual Café du Marche, on Rue Cler, near the Eiffel Tower (about €20 pp). It’s on a great market street to walk through too. The café in Musee d’Orsay is FABULOUS (but about €28 pp). My kids still can’t get over their food/desserts. (The clock, pictured above, was right above our table. The museum/café is in an old train station.) Other recommendations ( no reservations, so get there early):

  • City Crepes Café, 73 Rue de Seine, American-friendly J (about €14 pp)
  • Refuge des Fondues, 17 Rue Trois Freres (about €20 pp)
  • Chez Gladine (Classic French food), 30 Rue des Cinq Diamants (about €20 pp)

Bon appetit!

Related Posts: London/Paris Spring Break:

London, Part 1/3: Heathrow to London; Youth Hostel, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Fat Tire Bike Tour, Oyster Cards

London, Part 2/3: The Eye, Gastro-pub, Millennium Bridge, Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, Tower of London, Churchill Museum, Brass Rubbings

London, Part 3/3: Stonehenge, Bath and Windsor

Ferry vs. Chunnel: Paris via Calais

French People are Nice (and Paris is Safe)

Paris with Teens

Versailles: Fat Tire Bike Tours

Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2010

In France, Paris, Trip Reports

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5 Responses to “Eating on a Budget in Paris”

  1. I'm sure those tips are just as useful for grownups on a budget as well as those travelling en famille and I agree with you about London being equally expensive to Paris. I live in Bristol and have to wince at the prices every time I arrive in London.

    Like you I tend to take snacks with me and then go somewhere nice but just have a coffee and cake and soak up the ambiance.

    In London practically all the museums and galleries are free and their cafes are a good value place to eat in the day and have a good selection for kids – don't know i you also experienced this in Paris

  2. [...] also offers opportunities for guest posters to discuss their trips as well.  Lisa’s recent Eating on a Budget in Paris  article  reminds us of the high cost of food in France, particularly when exchange rates [...]

  3. [...] my separate report, EATING IN PARIS ON A BUDGET, for tips on making it through the City of Lights without watching Euros float away on the wind. [...]

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