Feb 26, 2010

Maui with Grown Children

Hawaiian Magic

Guest post by Robin Gunn, 2008, updated 2/10

We’ve made a number of trips to Maui over the years but this time we were returning with our grown children. They flew from a different state and met us at the airport in Kahului an hour after my husband and I arrived. It was one of the best, most relaxing trips ever.

My in-laws have a condo in the Kahana area of West Maui. It’s right on the beach and they rent it out. It is still our favorite place to stay but since it was already rented for our limited available dates, we stayed at a duplex on the Puamana grounds. It was lovely, comfortable and the unit had everything we needed, including bicycles that we used to ride into nearby Lahaina. Next trip, though, we’ll make our reservations earlier so we can return to the Gunn condo at Hololani—it can’t be beat. (We could’ve saved money by camping. We’ve done that before but it requires a lot more planning and equipment than we wanted to mess with this time.) 

Our itinerary:

Day One:

Woke early due to the three hour time difference and walked down to the beach. Early morning surfers rode the slow, long curls Pacific blue bliss while we listened to the birds and walked the long stretch of sandy beach. Breakfast was fresh papaya on the back patio. Many of the residents at Puamana live there year round. They were friendly and helpful. Spent most of the day at the pool. Went into Lahaina for groceries at Safeway and shopped at the Cannery. Stayed on at the Cannery for the free keiki (child) hula show, which was delightful. Took advantage of the $1.00 taco night at a local Mexican food restaurant where the live music was fantastic.

Day Two:

Rode bikes into Lahaina and had breakfast at the Pioneer Inn next to the banyan tree. The macadamia nut pancakes were smaller than what our kids remembered when we ate there years ago, but then, our kids are much bigger than they were then, too.

All of us loved watching the early morning activities at the harbor as the day trippers left for the adjoining islands of Molokai and Lanai. We’ve been to both those islands before and have returned several times to the island of Lanai. With an early morning departure from Lahaina harbor and a rental car waiting when you arrive on Lanai, you can see much of the island in one day before taking the ferry back to Lahaina. Our favorite spot on Lanai is Turtle Beach.

We rode bikes around Lahaina after breakfast and then drove up the West Maui coast to Slaughter House Beach in search of some good waves. The water was calm that day and large sea turtles came out near the rocks and swam right alongside us.

Day Three:

Another day on the beach. This time we drove to Fleming Beach near Kapalua. The wind kicked up so instead of staying on the beach under our towels, we made use of the good public showers and drove up the coast to Honolua Bay. The further north you drive past Kapalua, the more you feel as if you’re returning to Old Hawai’i. We had to stop at our favorite fruit stand and buy some fresh pineapples. Returning to Puamana, we barbecued hamburgers on the grill at the duplex and then took our s’more makings down to the fire pit on the sand in front of the club house. The sunset that night was amazing. Our kids entertained us the way they used to when they were in grade school enjoying a family camp out at the beach. We sat for a long time in the balmy weather under the palm trees and talked and laughed, watching the stars come out.

Day Four:

We got a 6am start for Hana. Our first stop was Charley’s on the Hana Hwy in Paia at 7am for delicious eggs benedict and island French Toast with coconut syrup. We waddled out with a mele opu (happy stomach) and drove the famous winding road to the back side of the island. It takes about three hours to get to Hana but oh, is the scenery worth it. If you go crazy driving 25-30 miles an hour for several hours around hundreds of turns on narrow roads, this is not the trip for you. If you are settled into the “hang loose” rhythm of Maui time and like to stop and smell the waterfalls, then don’t miss this journey.

Beyond Hana, at Kipahulu, park rangers collect a fee for parking and day use at the waterfall and pools. Overnight primitive camping is also available and well worth the adventure. We’ve camped there several times. This time we just enjoyed the pools for the day. Hundreds of visitors come to Kipahulu every week and yet in the thirty years we’ve been visiting this incredible spot, the area has maintained its sense of natural, pristine beauty. Our son loves jumping off the rocks. Our daughter loves sunbathing on the smooth boulders. My husband loves sitting under the waterfall and getting his head massaged. I love swimming in the pools and taking in the deep greens of the tropical foliage, the obsidian black of the volcanic rocks and the crisp blue of the sky. We love this place.

Day Five:

Slept in after our late night return from Hana. Breakfast was leftovers from last night’s kalua pig from Da’ Kitchen in Kahului. DON’T MISS IT! The best locals’ type food on the island with another location in Kehei.

Since it was such a hot day, we headed upcountry to the Tedeschi Vineyards at the Ulupalakua Ranch. This is our favorite picnic spot. If you arrive before 2:00 you can order lunch from the grill in the General Store where many of the ranch hands go for lunch. We ordered elk burgers and bags of taro chips and were not disappointed. The beef and the elk meat in their burgers comes from the ranch and is lean and delicious. Not what you’d expect to find or eat on Maui but Maui is a marvelously diverse island and the Tedeschi is one of the quiet secrets that makes Maui magical. Returned to Lahaina in the evening to stroll and explore all the wonderful art galleries.

Day Six:

Leisurely morning walk along the beach and a final dip in the pool before packing up. Had lunch in Lahaina at Kimos. The waterfront view is always refreshing. The fresh fish is always delicious. The Naughty Hula Pie is always a treat. Bought going-home leis from the Aunties gathered on the front lawn of the Baldwin House Museum stringing together the beauties.

What felt different about this trip over the others we’ve made to Maui over the years was that we stayed in a quiet place and that set the tone for all of us to downshift and take each day slow and easy. Ideally, it would be great to have 10 days to 2 weeks there. Everyone was entertained enough without having to do any particular activities. We had lots of opportunities for leisurely talks since we weren’t on a schedule. It was the perfect time for us to connect with our grown children, catch up on their lives and make some more memories together in the place all of us love and like to think of as our second home.

Be warned! Once you visit Maui, the island Trade Winds will call to you the rest of your life, beckoning you to return.

World is Calling Editor’s Note (2/24/10): I loved this National Geographic’s TRAVELER article from a man who lived on Maui for 10 years, including favorite beaches (thought you’d find it interesting too)